Raw denim and selvage denim - what do they mean?

Denim enthusiasts are always talking about raw denim and selvage jeans. You'll also occasionally see jeans on the street with the hem folded over, revealing the finished selvage seam. This article will tell you what these are all about!

A brief history of jeans

Jeans were originally a garment developed for people doing hard labour in the late 19th century. Made of strong cotton denim fabric and reinforced with copper rivets at stress points, the pants served the demanding needs of mining, factory and railway workers.

At that time, all jeans were a uniform dark blue, and jeans did not have all the features of today, such as belt loops, zippers, different sizes and leg lengths.

With the rise of youth culture in the 50s and 60s, jeans gradually became mainstream, and at the turn of the 60s and 70s, pre-washed jeans were first manufactured. The first washing techniques included the still-used 'one wash' and 'stone wash'. Japanese denim brand EDWIN was among the first to develop the 'old wash' finish, which replicated the wear, details and fading of the color that had occurred with use.

These days, new jeans are available in all sorts of different shades and wear patterns. But there are also jeans that are still unworn, called 'raw denim' or 'dry denim'.

Raw denim

Raw denim is unwashed and unworn denim fabric, which is basically a dark blue, or indigo, color. The thickness of denim fabrics is defined by how much one square yard of fabric weighs, and this number is often stated, especially in the product information of raw denim jeans, for example in the form 14oz.

This means that denim fabrics come in different thicknesses, and the feel and properties of the jeans change depending on the thickness of the fabric. Lighter denim grades naturally feel lighter on the wearer. They also tend to fade faster, giving the jeans a more individual look.

The threads of thicker denim have absorbed more dye and are more resistant to wear. Over time, the wear becomes very individual and the contrasts are at their best very beautiful.

Many raw denim users try to wear new jeans for as long as possible before washing them for the first time. Usually at least six months. Jeans always lose color in the wash, and the most of it is the first wash. When jeans are worn in their own unique way, these wear marks created by hard use come out beautifully when the color is lost the most in the areas where the jeans have been worn the most.

(photo nudiejeans.com)

Selvage denim

(photo edwin-europe.com)

Selvage denim is a high-quality, narrow-pile denim fabric, typically made on old shuttle looms. The weaving technique creates a beautiful 'self edge', or more commonly known as selvage, around the edges of the fabric.

(pictured Nudie Jeans Re-use Lean Dean Dry Japan selvage #0461)

Denim production technology began to modernize after World War II, when the width of the fabric was increased and most producers abandoned their old-style 'shuttle loom' machines. A significant number of these old machines found their way to Japan, where many of the world's most prestigious denim fabrics are produced today.

The shuttle loom technology is about four times slower to produce denim fabric than modern technology. Older machines also require more maintenance and require a high level of skill to operate.

(photo denimhunters.com)

The reason why denim produced on these old machines is so valued is that the slower machine puts less strain on the cotton yarn and is more forgiving of irregularities on the yarn. The end result has more character, resulting into a vibrant fabric where you can see small irregularities and individuality.

Many denim enthusiasts believe that high-quality selvage denim wears more beautifully than denim fabrics produced with today's techniques.

Japanese Kaihara Denim is one highly respected selvaged denim producer, whose fabrics are used by, among others, our friends from Gothenburg, Nudie Jeans:

Discover our selvage denim selection here: SELVAGE DENIM

You can find the Nudie Re-use Selvage drop products here: NUDIE JEANS RE-USE SELVAGE